Food for Thought
Edible Thistles
Savor the season with these artichoke dishes by Chef Jamie Adams of Atlanta's Veni Vedi Vici. Artichokes appear multiple times on the menu of Veni Vidi Vici. "I love to cook them," says Chef Adams.
BY
Jamila Dorsey
PHOTOGRAPHY
Carlos Garcia

The artichoke is an edible thistle that was originally brought to the United States from Italy in the 1800s. Almost 100 percent of all artichokes grown in the U.S. are grown commercially in California. The state's first artichokes were planted on a farm near the Bay Area and in 1949, Marilyn Monroe was crowned the first California Artichoke Queen in Castroville, the self-proclaimed "Artichoke Center of the World."

Long before artichokes made it big here in the U.S. they were an important part of the cuisine in many Mediterranean nations. The artichoke and its forerunners have been found in archaeological ruins dating back many centuries, prompting this vegetable to be called one of man's oldest foods. Ancient Roman mythology tells the story of Jupiter, the Ruler and God of Thunder, visiting his brother Poseidon, the Ruler of the Sea, when he caught a view of a beautiful woman named Cynara. Jupiter immediately fell in love and pursued the woman; she resisted his efforts and requested to be transformed into a supernatural being. She became the Goddess Cynara, and Jupiter was overwhelmed with infatuation for her. When Cynara wanted to go back to earth, Jupiter was upset and turned the beautiful and statuesque Goddess into an artichoke. This story has contributed to the myth of artichokes being an aphrodisiac. Scientists can't prove that to be fact, but they can prove that the vegetable contains cynarin, which alters the perception of our taste buds, thus enhancing the flavor of foods. This has probably contributed to the artichoke's continuing popularity.

Artichokes are especially popular in Italian cooking. The reason for this is most likely because they grow all over the country and almost year around in its varied climates, says Jamie Adams, executive chef of Atlanta's classic Italian restaurant Veni Vidi Vici. Having lived in Italy for five years, Adams knows the cuisines of the country very well, and can attest to the popularity of artichokes in the various regions. He says that the vegetable is unique in that it has a flavor and texture that is totally its own, and it is versatile enough to work well with meat, seafood or pasta. "Pairing a wine with an artichoke dish is the hard part," Adams says.

Artichokes appear multiple times on the menu of Veni Vidi Vici. "I love to cook them," says Chef Adams. "Artichokes intimidate people and they're expensive in grocery stores, so people don't like to cook them. They prefer to leave it to us chefs." He also says that the Roman-style grilled artichokes on the restaurant's antipasti menu are very popular. The recipe calls for a slow poaching process and then grilling the artichokes, so it is no surprise that people would much rather leave the work to Chef Adams and his staff.

If you are feeling bold enough to try cooking artichokes at home, there are a few things you should remember. When purchasing artichokes at the grocery store, make sure they are of a bright green and uniform color. They should also be firm and the leaves should be almost closed. Like flowers, the more open the artichoke is, the older it is. Also, be sure to wash your hands repeatedly when handling them. There is something bitter on the outside of the vegetable that will transfer to every other food you touch. Chef Adams also says to keep in mind that artichokes have an extended cooking time compared to a lot of other vegetables and patience is key. He recommends the small baby artichokes, stating that you only have to peel off the outer layer before eating the entire thing. Adams also says the small versions are good sliced and served raw or pureed into mashed potatoes for a different flavor.